Why Compost?

Compost is free, homemade garden gold. It improves soil structure, adds nutrients, suppresses disease and reduces household waste going to landfill. Kitchen scraps and garden waste that would otherwise be thrown away become the best soil amendment you can add to a garden.

What to Compost (Green and Brown)

Good compost needs a balance of nitrogen-rich "green" materials and carbon-rich "brown" materials.

  • Green materials (nitrogen): Fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and filters, tea bags, grass clippings, fresh plant prunings, eggshells
  • Brown materials (carbon): Cardboard and paper (torn up), dried leaves, straw, wood chips, paper towels, newspaper
Do not compostMeat, fish and bones (attract pests). Dairy products. Diseased plants. Pet faeces. Cooked food (attracts pests). Weeds that have gone to seed (seeds survive composting and spread). Citrus peel in large quantities (acidic, slows composting).

Setting Up Your Compost

  1. 1

    Choose a location and container

    A partially shaded spot with access to the ground (soil organisms enter from below). A purpose-made compost bin (efficient, tidy, pest-resistant) or a simple heap enclosed with wire mesh or wooden pallets. Minimum size: 1 cubic metre for heat generation. Bigger is better.

  2. 2

    Start with a layer of browns

    Begin with a 10–15cm layer of brown material — cardboard, wood chips or dry leaves. This provides drainage and aeration at the base.

  3. 3

    Add greens and browns in layers

    Add kitchen scraps and green materials, then cover with a thicker layer of browns. The ratio is roughly 1 part green to 2 parts brown by volume. This balance prevents the heap from becoming slimy and smelly (too many greens) or dry and slow (too many browns).

  4. 4

    Keep it moist like a wrung-out sponge

    The heap should feel damp but not dripping — like a wrung-out sponge. In dry weather, water it. In wet weather, cover it. Moisture is essential for microbial activity.

  5. 5

    Turn regularly

    Turn the pile with a fork every 1–2 weeks. This introduces oxygen which speeds decomposition and prevents anaerobic conditions (which cause bad smells). Moving material from the outside to the centre ensures even composting.

  6. 6

    Harvest when ready

    Compost is ready when it smells earthy (not like rotting food), is dark brown, crumbly and you cannot identify the original materials. Takes 2–3 months in warm weather with regular turning, or 6–12 months if left to decompose slowly.

Speed it upChop or shred materials before adding — smaller pieces decompose faster. Add a compost activator (available from garden centres) or a shovelful of finished compost or soil to introduce microorganisms. In summer, a hot compost heap can be ready in 6–8 weeks.

Frequently Asked Questions

A healthy compost heap smells pleasantly earthy. Bad smells indicate problems: ammonia smell means too many greens — add more browns and turn. Rotten egg smell means too wet and not enough oxygen — turn and add dry browns. Pungent rotting smell usually means meat or dairy has been added — remove these and add plenty of browns.
Yes — a worm farm (vermicompost bin) works well in small spaces including apartments. Worms process food scraps into rich castings. Bokashi composting is another apartment-friendly option — a fermentation system in a sealed bucket that processes all food waste including meat and dairy.