What You Need

  • Sugar soap or TSP cleaner
  • 120-grit and 220-grit sandpaper
  • Bonding primer (essential — standard primer does not adhere to cabinets)
  • Cabinet-specific paint or high-quality water-based satin/semi-gloss
  • Good quality synthetic brush and small foam roller
  • Painter's tape
  • Screwdriver

Step-by-Step Process

  1. 1

    Remove doors and all hardware

    Take off all cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Number each one with masking tape on the inside so you know where they go back. Remove all hinges, handles and knobs. This is non-negotiable — painting doors in place gives a mediocre result.

  2. 2

    Clean everything thoroughly

    Kitchen cabinets accumulate grease and cooking residue that prevents paint adhesion. Clean all surfaces with sugar soap and warm water using a sponge. Rinse well and let dry completely. This is the most important prep step — skipping it causes paint to peel within months.

  3. 3

    Sand lightly with 120-grit

    Sand all surfaces lightly — you are not trying to remove the existing finish, just scuff it so primer can grip. Sand with the grain on timber. Wipe down all dust with a damp cloth and let dry.

  4. 4

    Fill any damage

    Fill holes, dents and scratches with wood filler. Sand smooth when dry.

  5. 5

    Apply 2 coats of bonding primer

    Use a bonding primer specifically designed for previously painted or laminated surfaces. Apply thin coats with a foam roller (back-surfaces) and brush (edges and detail). Let each coat dry fully. Sand lightly with 220-grit between coats and wipe clean.

  6. 6

    Apply 2–3 thin coats of cabinet paint

    Thin coats dry faster, level better and are far less prone to drips than thick ones. Use a foam roller for flat surfaces and a brush for edges. Sand lightly with 220-grit between each coat. Allow full drying time between coats — follow the paint manufacturer's recommendation exactly.

  7. 7

    Reattach doors after full cure

    Paint may feel dry but takes days to fully cure and harden. Wait at least 48–72 hours (or the manufacturer's recommended cure time) before rehinging doors. Hanging doors too soon causes the surfaces to stick together and peel when opened.

The biggest mistakesNot cleaning properly before priming (paint peels). Using the wrong primer (standard primer does not bond to existing cabinet finishes). Applying thick coats (drips and brush marks). Not allowing enough drying time between coats. Rehanging doors before paint is fully cured.

Frequently Asked Questions

Water-based alkyd or cabinet-specific paints give the best results — they dry to a hard, durable finish similar to oil-based paint without the long dry times and strong fumes. Brands like Dulux Aquanamel, Taubmans Endure Doors and Trims, or dedicated cabinet paints from hardware stores are designed for this application. Avoid standard wall paint which is too soft and chips easily.
Both — a small foam roller (100mm) for flat cabinet surfaces gives the smoothest finish with minimal texture. A good quality synthetic brush for edges, corners, profiles and detail areas. Never use a thick-nap roller which creates too much texture.